Q&A Responses:
Ah, a good question, though there is actually a bit of an answer already hinted at in the pictures. That is, McDonalds is a lot less grody than at home, has a much stronger "family eatery" vibe to it. It generally has different choices of Happy Meal toys (on a few occasions, they give out Pokemon merch), and some very "Japanese" takes on western food items like burgers with eggs in them.
That's Japanese "small change". The parentheses is deliberate, in Japan, the smallest paper denomination is 1000 yen, or about $10. Which leads to interesting cases where a single coin can give you as much buying power as 20 quarters back home... Put in a form factor that's just begging to be dropped in between a station platform and a train as you're boarding the subway.
Today's Log
Hello everyone, I'm back from a long and hectic ride around the Yamanote Line. Today involved a lot of picking one's own battles for things to see in Tokyo, since it's only one day, and the Yamanote Line's a big loop.
We started out today by heading to Marunouchi through Tokyo Station after early morning coding and breakfast, which was surprisingly less maze-like, though every bit as crowded as I heard it to be. Along the way, I finally was able to successfully snap a couple pics of the Shinkansen, and noted that a few of the lines seem to have penchants for being kept 60-70 feet above street level, which presumably isn't terribly soothing to acrophobics. Marunouchi is known for being two things: A business district with some of the most obscenely high rents in Metropolitan Tokyo, and home to the Japanese Imperial Palace. The Imperial Palace, or what we peasants tourists are allowed to see of it from the outside moat is a nice green stretch in a sea of concrete and tarmac policed by the Imperial Family Defense Force, which consists of police officers from the Metropolitan Police Department, koi, pigeons, and vicious bioweapons called "swans". Today, we also had the fortune to spot a motorcade heading out from the Imperial Palace, which was a bit of a big deal for a small crowd of dutiful watchers on a street corner just beyond the outer moat, since even though the imperial family may not legally be gods anymore, they're still a fairly big deal in Japanese culture.
After Marunouchi, I headed north with my party on the Yamanote line past Akihabara to Ueno. If Japan is direly lacking children to the point of potential demographic crisis, Ueno represents the most eager attempt by Tokyo to try and assuage people otherwise. Ueno station happens to sit right next to one of the most popular park complexes in the entire city, and it hands-down had the highest concentration of Japanese minors that I've seen so far anywhere in this concrete jungle. Ueno Park is really one of those places where you could easily spend a day on your own and be satisfied. There's a zoo, a collection of museums along the northeast, some sundry shrines, and a nice pond complex in the southwest. Due to aiming to make it around the Yamanote Line today, we took a bit of a more cursory exploration of the place, we visited the Art building of the National Museum in the northeast, and then afterwards walked along some unfortunately generally uncooperative cherry trees that stubbornly insist that it's too early to bloom in late March to visit the ponds, where I had my chance to nibble a bit of Japanese street food.
After that, we unfortunately had to cut to the chase and skip Ikebukuro, which I kinda wanted to see, but made up for it by lunch and sightseeing at Shinjuku. Shinjuku is a very business-oriented district, and is perpetually busy even by Tokyo standards. After lunch, we decided to do what any sane person would do in a large collection of skyscrapers and get to the top of one of them, namely Hypnos HQ the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, which give a view of pretty much everything that you could ever want to see in the sprawl, if recently beat out by the Sky Tree built in Sumida. There's a kinda kitchsy souvenir stand up on the observation deck, but hey, it sold konpeito, so it was good enough for me.
Following that, we went to the last major big stop (unless you count Harajuku) before we went through the entire loop, Shibuya. Shibuya is often portrayed as being a district dominated by youth life, including some strains of youth life that belong to more rebellious subcultures. While the average person isn't exactly walking down the street in Gothic Lolita attire or fighting mortal battles against evil graffiti spirits, it's fairly obvious that there is a kernel of truth behind Shibuya's presentation given how prolific graffiti is there relative to most of the rest of Tokyo. Tagging apparently knows no spatial limits in Shibuya. Whether it's at street level, on a pedestrian overpass 30 feet in the air, or a vacant billboard 40 feet above said overpass, there is a decent minority chance you might be able to spot a tag on said object.
Of course, then again, my expedition to Shibuya was unfortunately confined fairly tightly to the station. The main landmarks that I saw in Shibuya were Hachiko, which is perpetually mobbed by people looking for photo ops or simply a handy meeting place; the Moyai, which is Hachiko's underloved sculptural counterpart by the bus station; and the scramble crossing, which gives you a great view of the 109 and it's more ignored men's department that actually borders the crossing, the largest jumbotron to sit on top of a Starbucks ever, and some rather garish neon-filled alleys with small shops and pachinko and pachislo parlors. For the audiophiles, Shibuya is a bit worse off than it used to be. HMV has been gone for a couple years, as have most of its competitors due to CD sales crashing in Japan. A stubbornly resistant exception to this rule is Tower Records, which continues to sit defiantly in all it's 5-story glory north of the station right by the train tracks. The department stores are also a great, if expensive place to eat dinner, which is where I wound up whiling away about 3 hours over a rather filling, if pricey sashimi bento.
Part of the reason why my jaunt to Shibuya was so attenuated was that I wound up taking a detour out to Setagaya to pay a visit to Carrot Tower above Senganjaya station. For those curious why I bothered heading out to a residential district on a no-name line, the answer is simple: It's essentially the real-world Celadon Condominiums. It's exactly what you think it is, except it's more orange, has fewer violations of the fourth wall, and is sorely lacking in free Eevees. But yeah, it was well worth the venture off the beaten path, even if I had to not pry too deeply to avoid irking the local salarymen. Had I had more time, I probably would have spent some time exploring the smaller shops and back alley arcades there. While cheap and a bit crummy, they tend to be some of the most down-to-earth ways of seeing how local culture operates.
Tomorrow will be a bit less fun and games, since I will be touring an office that I may be working at later this year to get a feel for it, though should still have some time to get into hijinks after my tour. I can already think of a certain tourist trap next to Hamamatsucho station with my name on it...
Picture Time!:
Alas, is delayed. Again. Due to sheer volume of pictures that I need to upload. Will upload in pieces as I can.
Part 1, kudos to my phone, which lasts all the way up until it ran out of battery in Ueno.
Part 2: Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Setagaya.
# of Streetpasses:
* 79 [spoiler]Yes, you're reading that right, that's 45 more than yesterday. I had to more or less bin perfectly good Streetpasses from minigames because they were coming in that fast. Busy train stations tended to be the primary contributors.
Yen Left:
* ¥15976
Item(s) GET:
* Jet Lag
* Suica card
* Sega Saturn + Controller
* Saturn Memory Card
* Panzer Dragoon Saga
* White Japanese 3DS
* Dragon Quest 7: Warriors of Eden
* Guild01
* Inazuma Eleven 1-2-3
* Monster Hunter 3G with Frankenstick
* Ace Attorney 5
* Ace Attorney Investigations 2
* Mini art plate plus stand from National Museum
* Candy bento box with konpeito rice from Metropolitan Government Office
* Illustrated aerial map of Tokyo from above
* 5 advertising flyers acquired in about as many yards stepping out from Shibuya Station
* PSP data cable [spoiler]Was to pull pictures off a Sony camera that's seen its better days since I left my data cable across the Pacific.